Yes, there’s a reason men wear their scarves in the house in Sicily at this time of year. It is to keep warm. It is colder than we expected. We came in through cloud, and although Mt Etna was right in front of our balcony, it couldn’t be seen.
We were staying in a wonderful B&B called Casa Cuseni. It is a national monument, and a museum. It was built in 1902 by an English artist, and turned into a B&B by his niece. There is a book written about it called ‘A House in Sicily’. It is full of art, and many famous people have stayed there in the past. A house with history.
You need to look at their website. There is too much to explain and pictures do it better. It is high on a hill behind Taormina, though not far in actual distance. Taormina is all on a hill, though the main street, Corso Umberto goes along on the flat.
We went down on the first evening to do the passageiata and saw more well dressed men with scarves. Taormina is beautiful place though full of tourists, even at this time of year.
But it was rainy and cloudy and cold. We found a restaurant with local food and had yummy yummy yummy swordfish. A nice little taxi driver took us back up the hill. He pointed out a bride. Una sposa, he said. I said I think it is una sposa Americana, (I had heard the wedding group talking). He said yes, it is una sposa Americana. If it was una sposa Siciliana, it would have to be una sposa mafiosa!
By this time I was feeling shivery and achy. It rained all day the next day and I spent most of it in bed. Etna didn’t show itself from behind indigo clouds (which were beautiful in themselves) so I stayed in end all day keeping warm. This is hardly a sketch, but it is representative of the day and the weather.