So I have been sketching some ‘monsters’ on my travels and the one building I had to do was this one, Santa Maria della Pieve. Instead of finding somewhere new for lunch, we went back to Caffe Vasari, because it is absolutely perfect for sketching anything in the Piazza Grande. I approached it like a monster (in the method of Inma Serrano, see the links in this post), because I do love it, probably as much as any building in the world. It is quite complicated, and I didn’t want to make a hash of this one, but the monster approach rids me of fear. Unrealistic colour helps with that also.
The part of the building you see in the Piazza Grande is the nave, I guess, the back perhaps. This is the front. It is in the Corso Italia, but you can’t get back far enough for a good look in such a narrow street.
The door they actually use is on the side, where the men in medieval costume were going in that first day. On my previous trip to Arezzo, the first day I saw this church, the conical roof seen in the sketch was shaggy and overgrown, but on our second day trip to Arezzo during that visit, it was having its hair cut.
Interestingly there were other sketchers, sitting in front of us in the same cafe. We were underneath the loggia, they were out in the piazza. The man came to look at our sketches while we worked, but we didnt seem to have a language in common. Why didn’t I try harder..other languages! Concentrating on my sketch, I guess. Lost opportunity.
That evening we ate in a restaurant “La Torre di Gnicche”, that really appealed to me. (Piatti autentici e tipici.) It was just around the corner from the Piazza Grande, at the beginning of a very steep street. On my previous visit, Broni and I had struggled down the street, then watch two young men struggle up with an enornous suitcase.
Ít had great atmosphere. We ate antipasto, then polpettone. I do like meatballs. And of course we helped reduce the amount of bottles of red wine around the walls.