Shopping in the market

gedong_sisiOK, time was passing. Time to get some more shopping done. I planned to walk slowly up the Monkey Forest Road to the market, but I went out the gate of the hotel, and Made P. was there, and well……

I only bought one silk top at the market. A gift.  I had spotted this quite ornate cafe in Jalan Raya, opposite the market and close to where I had the pink ‘hangover cure‘. I thought it would be a good spot for sketching. I was into my last week and the sketchbook needed to be full when I got home, so no time to waste.  I am sure the waitress though I was quite crazy, because I took so long to decide where to sit. These huge glass bottles were wonderful in the flesh, but I wish I had drawn them bigger. But I wanted to get them on the page and I did,  while drinking watermelon and ginger juice – very refreshing.

Then I walked slowly down the Monkey Forest Road looking in any shop that interested me. I looked in Periplus Bookshop, though I didn’t buy anything. I tried on a coral pink skirt I have fancied since my last visit, but the ‘large’was too small to pull up over my hips. I pulled it on over my head, and it was ok on, but too much of a performance to get in and out of.

heliconia_rai_pastiThen it was time for lunch. I found myself near Rai Pasti. I ate mee goreng (fried noodles) while I sketched the heliconia. Then back for a swim. Later that afternoon another friend from home, also a sketcher, arrived at the hotel. We had dinner together at Ibu Rai and I was able to eat the Ikan Bakar Bumbu Bali again, with the lights on,  and see what I was eating this time.

 

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Candi Bentar

candi_bentarThis morning was cloudy. It gave me the opportunity to sit in what otherwise have been full sun, and sketch part of the candi bentar or split gate that is one of the entrances to the saltwater pool in the hotel.  I really enjoyed sketching this and hope to sketch it again. It developed into SUCH a rainy morning, so I sat on my verandah and worked on my sketchbook, writing and glueing.

About lunchtime the rain eased off, so with my umbrella, I made my way to Cafe Wayan. It is a restaurant that has been in cafe_wayanall the guidebooks since before I first went to Bali in 1986. Although it is almost next to my former ‘second home’, it has never been on my radar, probably for the reason that it is a haunt of first-timers.  Nevertheless it has a great reputation and a layout of pavilions in a garden. Even better, with the rain, it was nearby.

I sat in the main part of the restaurant, as there was a wealth of things to sketch there, and it didn’t necessitate going out in the rain. I ate cap cay (pronounced chop chai, a ‘c’ is always a ‘ch’ in Indonesian.) I don’t usually eat cap cay 2015-02-23 12.36.30either, but I needed a change. It was so very delicious. I will definitely go back to Cafe Wayan and have it again.  And I sketched the table decoration.

P1030539So the rain moved away. My friend Komang came from her home town to see me, and brought me fruit and Balinese desserts.  Her son came with her, and he and I swam in the hotel pool. Some of the hotel staff knew my friend and said to me ‘I have known Komang since Dian restaurant was on this side of the road’. And I have said ‘And I have known her since before that, when she worked at Cafe Bali.’

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Lunch at Villa Kitty

villa_kitty_catThe day after my friend left, I went to lunch with Elizabeth at Villa Kitty. I went to Villa Kitty for the first time last time I was in Bali. I really looked forward to returning. There were other guests for lunch, as usual. An American photographer who had just returned from India, and an Australian couple who arrived loaded down with kitten biscuits. They turned out to live across the park from me at home. Conversation is always easy. Everyone you meet there is an animal lover.

These are Elizabeth’s own cats. She has a number of dogs as well. Then there are 100+ cats and kittens that have been rescued. The purpose of Villa Kitty is not only to rescue cats, but to introduce and support cultural change in the attitude to cats in Bali.   Many tiny kittens are separated from their mothers and brought to Villa Kitty by tourists who find them alone and distressed.  Villa Kitty is helping to encourage the idea of spaying cats, so that there will be no more unwanted kittens.  I was very happy to find that the little faces I saw at breakfast time at Cendana were shortly on their way to be done also.
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The food at Villa Kitty is always exceptional. My photo came out blurred, but here is a photo on Villa Kitty website that will give you some idea how delicious. This time Elizabeth excelled herself with the desserts. I could have made a total pig of myself, but somehow I restrained myself and only made a small pig of myself.

The best way to find out what is happening at Villa Kitty is to follow them on Facebook. If you are in Ubud at the weekend, there is a big fundraiser at Indus Restaurant on 14th March.

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Breakfast at Cendana

cendana_statue-There is so much to sketch in the gardens at Cendana Hotel. I wanted to get off to a good start every day and get something in my sketchbook early in the day. In this case it was at breakfast time. Each day I would have the same breakfast. There was quite a choice, but I couldn’t resist the banana pancakes.  First I would have lemon juice freshly made for me, then a big pot of kopi bali  (Bali coffee) would come.

Meanwhil2015-02-27 07.50.59e I would be helping myself to fruit. Watermelon, papaya, pineapple. The pineapple in Bali is sweet and delicious, unlike the rather tart pineapple we are used to at home. Then there would be rambutans or mangosteens.  Followed up by banana pancakes.

The restaurant looks out over the salt water pool at the back of the property. On this particular day, I was sitting looking directly at one of the statues on the steps, so I took the opportunity to sketch her.

This is the setting. The sun is still low in the sky, so it is not the best photo I ever took, but better than no photo at all.  I haven’t sketched the male statue, so I have to go back and do it next time. Beyond the hotel property are rice fields and the rice was being harvested while we were there.cendana_resto

Having an early breakfast helps one beat the heat.

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Ubud in the dark again.

tropical_viewMy friend’s last day on the Island of the Gods. Her flight home was overnight, so she wanted a quiet day. While she packed her suitcase, I sat in the hotel grounds and drew a little corner of the garden  from a place where there was a convenient shady seat. For lunch, we got the hotel driver to take us to the Tropical View Cafe. It is down at the bottom of the Monkey Forest Road, past the forest, and up some steps. Such a surprise when you reach the top of the steps and see that it has a lovely view over the rice fields and a cooling breeze. 2015-02-21 12.39.06  Fish satay and a fruit drink while sketching the view with my ‘olive’ Copic Multiliner.

Back at the hotel, at about 3 p.m. suddenly the weather changed, the wind came up, and a short sharp storm took place. The lights went out. Electricity only came to Ubud in 1978. I first visited in 1986, so power cuts were still commonplace. But I haven’t known a power cut in Ubud for so long that I hadn’t checked the batteries on my torch. Mistake.

After about half an hour the lights came back on. My friend was still preparing for departure and some time after 6pm we set off up the Monkey Forest Road so she could change some money and have some dinner.  We soon noticed that nearly all the shops were shut and in darkness. The money changer was open luckily, but working by candlelight.

We thought it best to head for a restaurant nearby, because the Monkey Forest Road pavements are a challenge, even in full daylight.  We got a front table at Ibu Rai, a favourite for many years, so while there was still light, we had the best of it. Yes, they were serving dinner, except for fruit juices, for which they needed electricity. But soon it was dark. The restaurant was full, and hopeful people were begging for tables outside. The Ibu Rai staff were coming with more and more lanterns and candles. It was a well-oiled machine. Soon, our food came as well.  I ate Ikan Bakar Bumbu Bali- baked fish. I couldn’t see it, but it tasted wonderful. Beautiful sambal.Oh yum. I have to go back and have it again when I can see what it looks like.

Then just before we had to brave the Monkey Forest Road without lighting, the power came on. Back to the hotel, walking on the road in the traffic as the pavements were slippery with the rain. Then my friend hopped in the car with ‘Diana’s Lovely Nyoman’ and off to the airport.

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Lovina Beach Tour

lovina_beach_tourThis was our first trip out with the formerly-elusive Made P. On our last trip to Ubud, he had been recommended as a driver, by a friend. I was told where he could be found, so every day we went and asked for him. Another driver spoke to us each day, telling us that he had already gone out on a job. Very popular driver!

After three or four days of this, we needed a driver. So, on the basis of  “you’ll do”, we went off with the driver who had been giving us the information all week. This was Nyoman, the driver that I was looking for this time, who had become our friend over the course of a number of trips, and who turned out to have died.  The first time we left the hotel this visit, we were approached by a number of drivers, but we said ‘no, no, no’, as we were only walking up the road. But one face was familiar and my brain said ‘I think that’s Made P. ‘ So at some point last time, Nyoman must have introduced us to him. And the next day when I asked him, he told us Nyoman was dead.

So, my travelling companion seemed to me to be more and more unwell, but she was determined to make the most of her time. This was Friday and she was leaving Saturday night. So off we went on a very long tour right up to the north coast.  Our first stop was Taman Ayun temple at Mengwi. I have visited it many times, also when you could go right inside, which has not been the case for many years.  My friend walked around with Made while I drew this shrine that was in the grounds. I roughed it in with watercolour pencil, did most of the inking, then took a photo to do the colour from, as it was time to go.

The next stop was BeduP1000192(1)gul on Lake Bratan, and Pura Ulun Danau, ‘the temple on the lake’.  Another temple said my friend, on only the second temple. Just as well we had our own driver and were not with a group. But this is one of the most beautiful places in Bali. So, a walk around the temple which is surrounded by beautiful parklands, and off up over the mountain, past the monkeys on the side of the road, and down to Lovina Beach.

We stopped in Kalibukbuk, not far from where I stayed last time. I am fond of Kalibukbuk. It is a tiny place but there are good places to eat. We had lunch at Bali Breeze which is right on the beach. 2015-02-20 13.42.17I took a selfie to make Broni envious and ate mee goreng for lunchwhile I drew the little lamp.  We took a walk along the parade of shops at the beach, but the rain began, so it was time to set off for home.

I asked Made to stop at the Puri Bagus hotel on the way, so I could have a look at it. I saw the one in Candi Dasa a long time ago and now there is one at Lovina. It proved to be far from Kalibukbuk and down a long long track. Totally isolated unless you have a driver. Though it was quite beautiful, the reception area was built up high, up some huge steps.  This is something that is often done in Bali, and though it looks good, it is too difficult for me. The height of the steps is far from what we are used to, and there is never a railing. Some places have strategically placed statues or other decorative things and that helps a lot. But I wouldn’t choose to stay at a hotel with  a barrier like this out front. So, crossing Puri Bagus off the list, with some regret.

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The Ganesha at Murni’s

ganeshaIt was time for ‘last minute panic shopping’ for my friend. In fact it wasn’t quite the last minute, but the following day we had a trip planned,  and the day after that she was going home. And she hadn’t yet been in Ubud Market!

In view of the fact that the dimageental issue was making her increasingly unwell, we got a lift up the Monkey Forest Road with the hotel driver. The market is very hot inside. We did a little shopping but it wasn’t long till we needed a cool drink. We went to a place right across the road. Although I had no hangover, I had a ‘hangover cure’ drink. It was too good to resist –  strawberries, dragon fruit and banana. At first I didn’t get how the strawberries had made the drink such a vivid colour. Dragon fruit I have seen in the past have white flesh with the black dots, but not these Balinese ones.  You can see it in my breakfast here.

After our drink it was back to the market for a little more shopping, but quite quickly the heat overcame my friend, and we had to get out of there. imageWe found a driver to take us to Murni’s restaurant. An old favourite of mine for 29 years, it is terraced down a ravine and you look out on the jungle.

We ordered lunch, but soon my friend wanted to go back to the hotel. We found her a  driver and she went back for a sleep while I finished my lunch and sketched the Ganesha. I walked back up the hill from Campuan, instead of getting a driver, because I wanted to look at a couple of things on the way. image

I had a quiet afternoon at the hotel sketching the statue I could see from the verandah of our bungalow while my friend rested. Like many Balinese statues he is dressed in poleng cloth, signifying balance between the opposing forces of good and evil.

A quick meal, early and not far from the hotel, at Dian Restaurant.

 

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